AC/DC electrical installations and energy storage

It is twenty-one o'clock. The yacht is anchored in a quiet bay, the generator is silent, yet the light in the galley is on, the refrigerator hums steadily, and the autopilot and navigation electronics are ready for tomorrow. No one on board thinks about amps — because the electrical system simply works. This is the result of a design where every circuit, every cable, and every connection was carefully considered before the yacht set sail.

Most failures at sea do not start with the engine — they begin with a poorly routed wire, a breakdown after years of makeshift repairs, or a battery that cannot last the first night without shore power. That’s why I take a comprehensive approach to yacht electrical systems, for 12V, 24V, and 230V installations, on both sailing and motor yachts.

Project and modernization of the installation — the foundation on which the entire system stands

I replace worn-out, makeshift installations with new ones and organize the main distribution boards, which after years of adding more devices usually turn into an incomprehensible tangle of cables. I lay new marine wiring according to ABYC and ISO standards—not because someone requires it on paper, but because these standards distinguish an installation that will withstand storms and moisture for many seasons from one that will fail at the first opportunity. Every project receives complete documentation of diagrams and selection of protections—this is the foundation; the rest of the system is only as good as the installation it stands on.

Energy storage systems that last longer and weigh less

"Converting to safe lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries with a properly calibrated BMS (Battery Management System) means, in practice: more realistically available energy from the same space, faster charging, and hundreds more cycles than traditional AGM or GEL batteries — which I still choose where they are the more sensible option. This leads to longer evenings without the noise of a generator, a quieter anchorage, and batteries that won’t let you down just when you are far from port."

Verified command center for the entire installation - Victron Energy

I design, install, and program Victron Energy ecosystems (Multiplus, MPPT, Cerbo GX, VRM monitoring), as well as Mastervolt and Whisper Power. This is not a set of separate devices, but one coherently programmed system that decides where to source power from — land, alternator, or battery — so you don’t have to think about it. Remote VRM monitoring provides insight into the system's status from your phone, whether you are on board or at home.

Alternator charging optimization

The installation of DC-DC chargers and advanced external regulators, such as ARCO Zeus or Wakespeed, not only enables faster charging of the battery bank while sailing. It also protects the alternator itself from overload and the so-called load dump — a sudden voltage spike that can burn it out and damage the yacht's electronics in seconds.

Onboard electronics and communication — one network instead of separate gadgets

I install and integrate onboard electronics — plotters, radar, AIS, autopilots — into a cohesive network based on NMEA 2000, connecting brands like B&G, Raymarine, Garmin, and Simrad with power systems (CZone, EmpirBus). Data on position, speed, or battery status flows where you need it — to the plotter, phone, or control panel — instead of getting lost among incompatible devices from different manufacturers.

Satellite Internet (Starlink)

Installation and configuration of Starlink Maritime terminals and integration with the onboard network — constant internet access on the open sea, beyond cellular coverage.

VHF radios and AIS transponders

Installation and servicing of marine VHF radios and AIS transponders — essential for safety and communication in navigation.

Yacht monitoring and CCTV

Installation of cameras and remote monitoring systems for the yacht's condition, allowing control of the vessel during your absence — in port, marina, or on charter.

GSM antennas and signal boosters

Installation of antennas and boosters to improve phone and internet coverage (GSM/4G) on the yacht, especially in remote bays and anchorages.

Protection of the hull and valves where it is not visible

Stray currents are a silent enemy of every yacht — they accelerate the electrolytic corrosion of the hull and through-hull fittings before anyone notices. An audit, measuring stray currents, and installing galvanic isolators and isolation transformers is an investment that may not be visible at first glance, but it protects the yacht's value for years — and saves costly surprises during hull inspections.

The mechanism is simple, yet insidious: when two different metals come into contact in seawater (electrolyte) — for example, the bronze of a propeller and stainless steel of a shaft — a galvanic cell is formed between them, and the less noble metal begins to release ions and corrode, sacrificing itself to protect the more noble one. This is galvanic corrosion. A separate, often more dangerous problem is stray currents (electrolytic corrosion) — caused not by the contact of metals themselves, but by an external direct current leaking from the yacht's system or a neighboring boat in the marina through the water and grounding from the land. This second mechanism can destroy a propeller in just a few weeks.

That’s why it’s worth conducting control measurements: I check the hull's potential relative to the water with a reference electrode, measure the leakage current on the grounding wires with a clamp meter, and test the continuity of the entire bonding system between the propeller, shaft, engine, and underwater valves.

An important note that is rarely mentioned: more anodes do not always mean better protection. Over-anoding — excess or poorly sized anodes — can cause too strong a shift in the hull's potential, which may lead to delamination of coatings and gelcoat (known as cathodic disbondment) and hydrogen embrittlement in certain metal alloys.

"Let’s return to that quiet bay at twenty-one hundred hours. You can get there hoping that this time the battery will last through the night until morning—or with a system you just know will hold up. It’s not a single device that makes the difference, but rather the fact that the installation, energy storage, onboard electronics, communication, and hull protection work together—as one cohesive whole, designed for your yacht. If you prefer this second version of an evening at anchor—let’s talk about your installation."

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between LiFePO4 and AGM or GEL batteries?

LiFePO4 provides more realistically available energy from the same space and weight, charges faster, and withstands several times more cycles — but requires a properly calibrated BMS and often a redesign of the charging system. AGM and GEL can be a more sensible choice where budget or the nature of the yacht demands it — I choose the technology for the specific yacht, not the other way around.

Is the LiFePO4 battery safe? And what about examples of fires in cars?

Yes — LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) is one of the most thermally stable lithium chemistries: unlike NMC or NCA cells, which power most electric vehicles and make headlines in fire incidents, LiFePO4 does not easily release oxygen and has a much higher ignition threshold in cases of overload or mechanical damage. This is why this chemistry is the standard on yachts, not NMC. The real risk lies elsewhere — in poorly selected or poorly calibrated BMS, cheap, untested cells, or improper installation (without adequate fusing and ventilation) — which is why I always design and configure a battery bank as a complete system, not a single off-the-shelf product.

What is NMEA 2000 and why is it important?

In what area do you operate?

What wire gauge is needed for a 12V/24V installation?

Do you need to replace the alternator when installing a DC-DC charger?

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