Yacht winterization part 3/4: on land, step by step
In part 1 we looked at choosing where the boat will spend the winter and at preparing the engine and generator and washing the boat. In part 2 we covered wintering afloat in a Mediterranean marina: batteries, shore power, the generator, air conditioning and the water system. If you have chosen land instead (still the standard in northern Europe and anywhere with hard winters, and common in the south too when work is needed below the waterline), the task list is a little different: one-off jobs that need precision, because a mistake made while hauling out or supporting the hull is hard to fix in the middle of winter.
Hauling out
The boat comes out of the water with a travel lift, a hydraulic trailer or a crane, depending on the yard's equipment. Whatever the method, one rule applies: be there in person, especially if the hull has an unusual shape (deep keel, skeg, twin rudders). The yard is responsible for the equipment, but the owner knows the weak points of their own boat best.
A good habit is to mark the lifting points on the hull permanently before the season (for example with a small line below the waterline). It makes the crew's job easier and reduces the risk of the slings ending up somewhere they were never meant to go.
Supporting the hull
This stage decides how safe the boat is for the whole winter, and it is one where technical details really matter.
Three common systems
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Wooden blocks and wedges: the traditional method, still in use.
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Telescopic tripod boat stands with chain ties: today the most common solution in large boatyards.
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Keel cradle (German “Kielerbock”): a steel frame with hinged pads under the keel, often used for ballasted yachts with a deep draft.
A safety rule that rarely gets mentioned
The key rule for stable supports is this: the resultant of the forces acting on the boat must reach the ground inside the footprint of the support's base. In practice this means rectangular bases are better than triangular ones: the latter look solid but leave a smaller safety margin under a side load (for example a strong gust of wind).
Interesting fact. Experienced skippers draw two distinctions that may look like details to a beginner. First: put the boat on stands or a cradle, and do not leave it on the transport trailer all season. The long, concentrated pressure of the trailer can permanently deform the hull, which you do not see straight away but which shows up, for example, at the next antifouling job. Second: when lifting a ballasted yacht it is better to carry it under the ballast keel, not just under the hull. The structure then works in compression under the weight of the ballast, instead of the hull skin being pulled at the sling points. A small difference in technique, with a big effect on the hull over the years.
Positioning and covering the boat
Set the boat with the bow slightly raised, so that rain and melting snow run off the deck instead of collecting by the cockpit. Also check that it sits level side to side on the supports.
The best cover is a breathable tarpaulin on a light frame (supports about every 2 metres), with ventilation gaps left at the bow and stern. Air has to circulate, otherwise moisture builds up under the cover.
Another option is shrink-wrap, a heat-shrink cover that fits the shape of the boat exactly. It is very tight and looks neat, but it has two drawbacks: cost (it is single-use) and risk. In crowded storage areas of large yards, insurers sometimes point to large amounts of this material as a factor that raises the fire risk of the whole yard, not only of a single boat.
Interesting fact. Several independent sources, Polish and Italian, warn about the same surprisingly common mistake: covering the boat with ordinary building plastic sheeting instead of a breathable cover. It looks like a cheaper and quicker option, but it seals the moisture in under the cover and almost guarantees mould inside by spring. It is typically made by owners laying up the boat on their own for the first time, without advice from the yard.
Sails and rigging
Laying up ashore is usually also when the mast comes down (though not always: some boats spend the winter with the mast up, even on land). If the mast is unstepped:
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take the sails off, rinse them in fresh water and store them somewhere dry and warm; autumn is also a good time for a sail loft check and repairs, often with an off-season discount,
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check the shrouds and stays not only from the deck but by sending someone up the mast: only close up can you see the condition of the fittings, swages and angles,
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remove the running rigging, replacing it with a messenger line (a thin pilot line), and wash the ropes at home, away from salt water and UV.
Interesting fact. For seized mast sheaves that are hard to turn (for example on the furler), experienced sailors recommend an unusual but effective home remedy: pouring hot water from the kettle over them instead of reaching for the usual WD-40 spray. The heat expands the mechanism and dissolves dried deposits more effectively, and it leaves no greasy film for dust and sand to stick to later.
Water and sanitation systems
On land, without heating, every drop of water left in the system can crack something at the first proper frost. The procedure:
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Drinking water tank: empty it completely and rinse it; a little lemon juice or a small amount of Milton prevents a stale smell when you fill it again in spring.
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Water heater: drain it completely or, if the design allows, fill it with antifreeze at the concentration the manufacturer specifies.
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Toilet and holding tank: rinse thoroughly and use a protective fluid for the pumps (the procedure depends on the type: manual, electric such as Jabsco, LectraSan and so on; always check the manual for your model).
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Deck shower and other separate circuits: easy to forget because they work independently of the main system; they need to be drained separately.
An alternative to the classic pink antifreeze is blowing the whole system through with compressed air, valued because it leaves no chemical taste at first use in spring. It does need care, though: rigid pipe runs can easily have a “pocket” where water stays trapped despite the blowing, and that is exactly where pipes most often crack.
Interior: ventilation, moisture, pests
Ventilation
Open all lockers, cupboards and floor hatches, stand the mattresses up so air reaches both sides, and leave cabin doors ajar. There is one goal: no closed space where moisture can build up without air moving.
Fridge and food
Clean the fridge and leave it open: closed, even when empty, it can grow mould within a week. Take all food off the boat, not just from the fridge, because crumbs and supplies in lockers are the main attraction for rodents.
Drying
An electric dehumidifier (if there is power) or silica gel in open containers placed around the cabin: a cheaper, maintenance-free alternative, though less effective in a large interior.
Protection against rodents and mould
It is worth temporarily blocking all openings (through-hulls, vents). For example, a steel wool scourer pushed into the opening blocks access without any permanent change. Scented sachets placed in lockers also discourage small pests.
Interesting fact. Among unofficial methods that keep coming up in sailors' stories for disinfecting the drinking water system, there is one surprising trick: rinsing it with a small amount of cheap spirit (rum or vodka) instead of the classic pink antifreeze. The argument: it kills bacteria and does not leave as strong a taste as glycol. To be clear, this is folk practice passed on by word of mouth, not an official recommendation from any maker of water systems or maintenance products. If you use it, you do so at your own risk.
Documentation and formalities
Before leaving the boat for the winter, take a set of photos of the hull, deck and interior to document its condition in case of damage or a dispute with the insurer.
If the boat spends the winter on private land (rather than in a yard or marina), check the local rules: in some countries and municipalities, storing a boat on private land is subject to planning or local regulations. Good practice is to have an up-to-date insurance policy and, if the land is not yours, a written storage agreement. These formalities are easy to forget in the rush of last-minute preparations, but they save a lot of stress in a dispute with a neighbour or the local council.
Next in this series
We have covered the preparation common to every option (part 1), wintering afloat in a Mediterranean marina from the point of view of the on-board systems (part 2), and now laying up on land. In the fourth and final part we look at the regions where wintering afloat is not the exception but the standard (Croatia, Spain and Italy), this time from the point of view of the berth itself: wind, sun, dry marinas and marina service packages.
The whole series: yacht winterization
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Part 3: laying up on land, step by step
Photo by David Todd McCarty on Unsplash
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